Wine101: La Rioja

Tucked away in the corner of the Cantabrian Mountains in the north, and following the Ebro River, La Rioja is one of the most majestic wine regions in Spain, if not in the world. In a place where time seems to have forgotten long ago, the traditions are still very strong and deeply rooted in the soil and vines which produce some of the most splendid Spanish wines.

La Rioja got its name from the Oja River (Rio Oja)which crosses the area and is divided into 3 sub-regions, each which different characteristics: Rioja Baja, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta. Vines have been present in the region for centuries, dating back to the Phoenicians. The earliest traces in writing mentioning La Rioja wines date back to 873. La Rioja is the first of the only two regions to be classified as as Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa), the highest ranking in the country, by the Denominación de Origen (Spanish Wine Council); the other being Priorat.

85% of the wines produced in the region are red (Tinto). The remaining is spread between white (Bianco), Rose (Rosado), and a small amount of sweet wines, which are slowly coming back into fashion, after decades of abandonment. Traditional Spanish grapes are of course highly dominant, but a small proportion of ‘International’ grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) can be tolerated in the blends. For the white wines, the king of the region is the Viura (also called Macabeo), and can be blended with Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca. The Viura offers good acidity, fresh fruits and aromas, while the Malvasia adds some fragrance and Garnacha Blanca givies body and structure to the wine.

As for the Rosados (rosé) and red wines, Tempranillo rules in the region, but it is generally blended with some other varietals like Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. Tempranillo (which needs to make up a minimum of 60% of the blend) brings the main flavors and tannins for the ageing; Garnacha brings color and body while Mazuelo and Graciano add complementary flavors and aromas. The blending in the region is an art itself. Due to the historic presence of ‘International’ varietals, some Bodegas are allowed to use them in their blends, but in a limited amount.

 Traditionally, many wineries aged their wines for a long period of time in old barrels, which created classic wines with delicate colours, slightly oxidized flavors of caramel, coffee and roasted nuts. Nowadays, some Bodegas tend to age their wines for a shorter amount of time, offering more fruity flavours and tannins. Also, a much higher percentage of new oak barrels are used, making the wines richer and more concentrated. The region, while adapting to the modern markets and demands, will continue to keep close to its own roots and tradition. The Bodegas, dominated by family-owned domains, will continue to work closely with local grape growers and cooperatives, in order to keep the ancestral history going, and to continue to produce the most stunning, delicate and long-living wines from this country.